Temperance

Cogswell Temperance Fountain
(Sculptor: Henry B. Cogswell, DDS, 1880.)

While many of the monuments and memorials around D.C. exist for obvious reasons, there are many that puzzle those who stop long enough to look at them. Case in point would be this monument to Temperance located at the corner of Indiana Avenue and 7th Streets NW. This seemingly odd sculpture sits in the same area as that of the Grand Army of the Republic.

Known as the Cogswell Temperance Fountain, it was sculpted by San Francisco dentist Henry B. Cogswell who desired two things. First, that Americans would stop drinking alcohol and start drinking water. And second, that he be remembered forever. Cogswell made his fortune in California in real estate and mining, but it is his eccentricity that is manifest in this fountain, as well as others he sculpted and set in 16 cities across America. Of the 16, this is the only one to survive.

Originally, the Temperance Fountain was a drinking fountain. Today, the fountain does not flow with water. And it's probably just as well. The District of Columbia is notorious for bad water, including high lead content, among other concerns.

Zip: 20004

Photo copyright: D.C. Confidential, (09/07.)

Shenandoah

Labor Day 2007: Part I, Saturday

Jewell Hollow Overlook, Shenandoah National Park, 3,320 ft ASL

Wildflowers, Shenandoah National Park

Spittler Knoll Overlook, Shenandoah National Park, 3,150 ft ASL. It was at this point that Confederate General Thomas J. "Stonewall" Jackson marched 25,000 troops from Antietam to Fredericksburg in November 1862. Jackson would later be mortally wounded in the spring of 1863 at Chancellorsville and would die of pneumonia following the amputation of his arm. His arm lies buried outside Chancellorsville, while his body is laid to rest in Lexington, his hometown.

This weekend, I drove down to Lexington, Virginia, instead of fighting the masses going to the beaches. Rather than take I-66 to I-81 or I-95 to I-64, though, I decided to take the scenic route. Literally. To do that, I take I-66 West from Washington to Route 29. Then I go through Gainesville and Warrenton, where I take Route 211 and head up into the Shenandoah National Park, entering the park at the Thornton Gap Entrance Station (Mile Marker ~30)--2,304 ft above sea level.

Shenandoah National Park starts in the north at Front Royal and continues southward to Rockfish Gap--approximately 105 miles--where it meets up with the Blue Ridge Parkway. The highest point in the park is Hawksbill Peak, which tops out at 4,051 feet. The views and vistas are impressive and, when the colors change in the fall, Skyline Drive in SNP can be bumper-to-bumper with folks out to see nature's fireworks.

It takes about four hours to drive from Thornton Gap to Rockfish, but it's worth every mile. If you like hiking, the park is filled with trails and scenic views galore. There are also several camp sites and lodges. This past weekend, temperatures were easily 10 - 20 degrees cooler than the city, which made it a beautiful getaway.

Zip: 22835

Photo copyright: D.C. Confidential (09/07)

Blue Ridge Parkway

Labor Day 2007: Part II, Saturday

Appalachian Farm Building, Humpback Rocks, Blue Ridge Parkway.

Common weeds, but when they're backlit by the sun, they acquire a halo-effect and are quite charming; Blue Ridge Parkway.

Vista just north of Whites Gap Overlook, Blue Ridge Parkway

Once you exit the Shenandoah National Park at Rockfish Gap and cross over I-64, you then enter the Blue Ridge Parkway, which runs from I-64 in the north to just north of Cherokee, NC, approximately 470 miles. Saturday's drive covered about 1/10 of that and brought me out between Whites Gap Overlook (2,567 ft ASL) and Indian Gap at Buena Vista (pronounced Bwee-na Vista in these parts), 11 miles east of Lexington.

Near the entrance of the Parkway is Humpback Rocks Visitor Center, which features an Appalachian farm. In the 1800s, the government paid settlers to move out and settle the Appalachian ranges, thereby creating America's westernmost settlements at the time.

The parkway--like its sister, Shenandoah National Park--features beautiful vistas and winding mountain roads.

Zip: 22945

Photo copyright: D.C. Confidential (09/07)

R.E. Lee

Labor Day 2007: Part III, Sunday

Washington & Lee University, Lexington, Virginia.

Lee Chapel on the campus of Washington & Lee University, Lexington, Virginia.

The grave of Lee's horse, Traveller, outside the Lee Chapel on the grounds of Washington & Lee University, Lexington, Virginia.

Recumbent Lee, by Edward Valentine. The sarcophagus of Robert E. Lee in the Lee Chapel at Washington & Lee University, Lexington, Virginia. (Photo courtesy of the Lee Family Digital Archive.)

Lexington, Virginia, was the destination this past weekend. For those not familiar with Lexington, it lies at the foot of the Blue Ridge. Located in Rockbridge County, Virginia, Lexington was named after the town in Massachusetts where the American Revolution began. Most of the settlers in this valley were German and Scotch-Irish. The town was, among other things, fairly education-conscious and opened Liberty Hall Academy in the town. The town is also home to the nation's first state military academy, Virginia Military Institute (VMI.)

The school eventually fell on hard times and only emerged from ruin because of a generous bequest of $50,000 in stock from George Washington. The school changed its name to Washington College, in recognition of Washington's generosity. During the Civil War, the Union Army burned the neighboring military school--VMI, alma mater and employer of Stonewall Jackson and later George C. Marshall--but refused to burn Washington College because of its namesake. After Robert E. Lee's surrender at Appomattox, he rode into Lexington on his warhorse, Traveller, where he assumed the presidency of the college.

At the time Lee arrived in Lexington, the school only had 40 students. By the time of his death in 1872, the student body numbered 400. Lee was so loved, the school changed its name again and to this day it remains Washington & Lee University. For an excellent read of Lee's post-Civil War years, I'd recommend Lee: The Last Years. Lee is laid to rest, along with all of his family, in the R.E. Lee Chapel on the campus of Washington & Lee. He lies in a sarcophagus bedecked with a recumbent sculpture by Edward Valentine. Lee's horse, Traveller, is buried outside next to the church.

Zip: 24450

Photo copyright: Lee Family Digital Archive (Recumbent Lee), D.C. Confidential (All Other Pictures), 09/07.

Stonewall

Labor Day 2007: Part IV, Sunday

Thomas J. "Stonewall" Jackson's first burial plot, Stonewall Jackson Cemetery, Lexington, Virginia. Note: Many gravestones in this cemetery are decorated with a CSA shield and the Confederate flag.

About 100 feet east of the original burial plot is this resting place, which is where Stonewall Jackson and his family lie in eternal repose. Stonewall Jackson Cemetery, Lexington, Virginia.

Lexington, Virginia's, other most (in)famous citizen is Thomas J. "Stonewall" Jackson. One of the most storied generals of the Confederate Army, Jackson made his home and career in this tiny mountain town. While Robert E. Lee is beloved in this town, he is a blip on the radar when compared to Jackson. Nearly 1/2 of the buildings or areas of note in this town are named for Jackson.

Stonewall Jackson was a graduate of West Point (Class of 1846). It was at West Point where he met Lee. Following service in the U.S. Army that included a stint in the Mexican-American War, Jackson accepted a teaching post of "natural and experimental philosophy" and instructor of artillery at Virginia Military Institute. When the Civil War broke out, Jackson joined Lee and was called up to lead what would become known as "The Stonewall Brigade."

Jackson was wounded in a friendly fire incident at the Battle of Chancelorsville, Virginia, near Fredericksburg, in 1863. His arm was amputated and buried on the grounds of a farm serving as a field hospital. He eventually died of pneumonia, the result of his wounds, and was buried twice in Lexington. First, in a family plot and then beneath another Edward Valentine statue in the same cemetery.

Zip: 24450

Photo copyright: D.C. Confidential (09/07)

VMI

Labor Day 2007: Part V, Sunday

Statue of Thomas J. "Stonewall" Jackson on the campus of the Virginia Military Institute, Lexington, Virginia.

Statue of General George C. Marshall, United States Army, on the campus of the Virginia Military Institute, Lexington, Virginia.

In addition to Thomas J. "Stonewall" Jackson, one of the Virginia Military Institute's (VMI) other famous figures was George C. Marshall, who graduated from the school in 1901. Marshall, related to the distinguished jurist and Supreme Court justice, John Marshall, had an equally distinguished career as a soldier and diplomat.

Following his graduation from VMI, Marshall entered the U.S. Army where he served in numerous overseas posts. He eventually served as aide-de-camp to General John J. Pershing. In addition to service in the Philippines and during World War I, Marshall entered World War II as a brigadier general. Marshall was only the second general at the time to earn five-star status. It was he who assigned Dwight D. Eisenhower as Supreme Commander, Allied Forces, Europe.

After World War II, Harry Truman appointed Marshall Secretary of State. In 1947, Marshall gave a speech where he outlined a plan for rebuilding Europe. The Marshall Plan helped Europe rebuild and modernize rapidly after the war that had devastated the continent. He went on to win the Nobel Peace Prize. Marshall would go on to be president of the American Red Cross and would briefly serve as Secretary of Defense for President Truman. Marshall died in 1959 and is buried in Arlington National Cemetary.

Zip: 24450

Photo copyright: D.C. Confidential (09/07)

Random Lexington

Labor Day 2007: Part VI, Sunday

Rabbit in a Cemetery, Lexington, Virginia.

Stained glass reflection, R.E. Lee Memorial Episcopal Church, Lexington, Virginia.

No grande latte cappucino no foam, high falutin' corporate coffee here! On Route 606, just outside Lexington, Virginia.

Just a few random, oddball pictures from this weekend's trip to Lexington, Virginia.

A rabbit in the Stonewall Jackson Cemetery.

The sun pouring through the window of the R.E. Lee Memorial Episcopal Church (not to be confused with the Lee Chapel, where Lee is buried. This church was built after Lee's death. He approved the plans for the church five days before his death.)

And an odd building in the shape of a coffee pot. Could this be the predecessor to Starbucks?

Lexington was lovely! If you're looking for someplace to visit in Virginia, this town is well worth the drive and time.

Zip: 24450

Photo copyright: D.C. Confidential (09/07)

Shenandoah Sunset

Labor Day 2007: Part VII, Sunday

Tom, an artist from Charlottesville, plying his craft in Shenandoah National Park.

Sunset over the Shenandoah Valley, Shenandoah National Park, Virginia.

And to round out the weekend, sunset in the Shenandoah. As well as an artist, plying his craft. Tom was kind enough to let me take a picture of him and his artwork.

A nice conclusion to the weekend.


Photo copyright: D.C. Confidential (09/07)

Slice

Samples of Wiener Werkstätte fabrics, courtesy of the Textile Museum

Today, I got together with my friend and sister Scary Feminist, Tickle the Pear. She invited me to the Textile Museum to see "Textiles of Klimt's Vienna"--an exhibit of Secessionstil and Wiener Werkstätte fabrics from the early 1900s. The exhibit itself was rather small, but did an excellent job of explaining a period in Viennese art and culture that goes beyond just simple art deco. At one point, I wondered whether Frank Lloyd Wright had been inspired by Gustav Klimt, Egon Schiele, Maria Likarz-Strauss, and Dagobert Peche as some of the designs and patterns from the era closely echo Lloyd Wright motifs.

The Textile Museum, 2320 S Street NW

The museum is housed in what was once the home of George Hewitt Myers, a collector of textiles and the founder of the museum. Before we went to see the Klimt exhibit, we sat in on a lecture about Turkmen rugs and bags. Tickle and I were the the youngest people in the room and we're not exactly spring chicks! Still, the information was interesting, but the room was too hot, so we ducked out early.

Washington's version of the Spanish Steps, which originally led to the entrance of a mansion.

After the museum, we walked down the Spanish Steps. There's not a lot of helpful information about the steps, except that they once led to a mansion in the Kalorama neighborhood. Now, they sit at the top of a cul-de-sac and, when you reach the top of the steps, to the right is the Ambassador of China's residence. The steps are not that far from Embassy Row (Massachusetts Avenue NW) and numerous embassies, chancelleries, and consulates are scattered throughout the neighborhood.

Art on Call:
call boxes that have been restored and feature art from local and national artists. These ones are located at the corner of Decatur and 22nd Streets NW, just below the Spanish Steps.

Following the steps down, we found ourselves on Decatur and encountered part of the "Art on Call" project that can be seen throughout the city. In the 1860s, call boxes were scattered throughout D.C. and were used to summon police and firefighters. They constituted the 911-system of that period, if you will. Despite their obsolescence, they remain on many street corners. "Art on Call" is a project to highlight these boxes and make them into art pieces. These are just two examples.

Urban renewal in the historic Shaw neighborhood. Someone gets creative!

Having wandered through parts of Kalorama and DuPont Circle, we then grabbed a burger at Fuddruckers, after which I took Tickle home. On our way to her place, we passed this recently painted house in the historic Shaw neighborhood. Given how hot and humid it was today, it seemed like a nice wrap-up to a lovely afternoon with a friend!

P.S. Tickle: Looking forward to MoBob's Moroccan!

Zips: Textile Museum, Spanish Steps, and Call Box (20008)
Watermelon House Zip: 20009

Photo copyright: D.C. Confidential (Janet M. Kincaid, 08/07)

Equality

The Charles Sumner School. Architect: Adolf Cluss.
Built: 1872. Renovated: 1984-1986.

Located on the corner of M and 17th Streets NW, the Charles Sumner School was built in 1872. Named after a senator, Sumner was a leading figure in the fight against slavery and the establishment of equal rights for black Americans. The Sumner School was one of the first public school buildings erected in Washington for the education of the city's black community. Charles Sumner was not only a strict abolitionist, he was also instrumental in creating a Freedman's Bureau, obtaining pay for black soldiers that was equal to white soldiers, and fighting for the rights of African Americans to ride street cars in the District. He was, in other words, a leader ahead of his country who believed in equal rights for everyone--regardless of skin color.

For nearly a century, the school educated blacks, but eventually it fell into disrepair. In the 1980s, the building was meticulously and beautifully restored. Today, the Sumner School houses a museum on education in the District of Columbia, as well as conference rooms.

The building was designed and built by German immigrant and architect Adolf Cluss. Cluss is also the designer and builder of numerous other well-known and long standing buildings of historical significance and contemporary use in Washington, D.C., including Calvary Baptist Church, the Arts & Industries Building, the Eastern Market, and the Masonic Temple at 9th and F Streets NW, among many others.

Zip: 20036

Photo copyright: D.C. Confidential (Janet M. Kincaid, 08/07)